Crocheted Juliet Cap

Shades of the Sixties!

Better late than never, here is a pattern in honor of Pete Seeger, whose birthday was May 3rd.

Juliet Cap

Approximately 60 grams (100 yards) worsted weight yarn

For the original hat, I used Passport Yarns London, a discontinued yarn sold at Michael's, but you can use any worsted weight yarn you have on hand. The cap pictured was crocheted using a vintage mercerized cotton yarn: Brunswick Moonbeams. Try using a different color in each round. I made a granny square stitch poncho using up all of my mom's leftover wool yarns and a similar stitch when I first learned to crochet.

Size H crochet hook

Gauge is not critical

Round 1: Chain 6, join into a ring using a slip stitch

Round 2: Chain 3, make 15 DC into ring, join with a slip stitch to top of chain 3 (16 DC)

Round 3: Chain 3, DC into 1^st stitch, 2 DC in every stitch around (Cluster), join with a slip stitch to top of chain 3 (32 DC)

Round 4: Chain 3, DC into 1^st stitch, *skip one stitch, Ch 1, 2 DC cluster in next stitch*, repeat between *’s around, end with Ch 1, skip 1 stitch, join with a slip stitch to top of chain 3 (16 Cluster stitches, 32 DC)

Round 5 (Increase Round): Slip stitch into top of next DC, slip stitch into space between next Cluster, Chain 3, DC into 1^st space, Chain 1, *2 DC in space between next set of stitches (Cluster stitch), Ch 1, Cluster in same space, Cluster in next space, Ch 1*, repeat between *’s around, join with a slip stitch to top of chain 3 (24 Cluster stitches)

Round 6: Slip stitch into top of next DC, slip stitch into space between next Cluster, Chain 3, DC into 1^st space, Chain 1, *2 DC in space between next set of stitches (Cluster stitch), Ch 1*, repeat between *’s around, join with a slip stitch to top of chain 3 (24 Cluster stitches)

Round 7 (Increase Round): Slip stitch into top of next DC, slip stitch into space between next Cluster, Chain 3, DC into 1^st space, Chain 1, *2 DC in space between next set of stitches (Cluster stitch), Ch 1, Cluster in same space, Cluster in next space, Ch 1, Cluster in next space, Ch 1*, repeat between *’s around, join with a slip stitch to top of chain 3 (32 Cluster stitches)

Repeat Round 6 until cap measures about 9" in length

Cap will start to shape into cup shape after the increases are finished. If you have a larger head, repeat Round 7 (Increase Round) before beginning round 8.

Finish with a round of SC or crab stitch and weave in ends.

Pinwheel Beret Pattern

Happy Daylight Savings Time, America!

As promised, here is the beret pattern that I developed from the Pinwheel sweater designed by Shelly Mackie for elann.com. I seem to be on a spiral kick recently. I just finished these easy spiral socks (a free pattern designed by Sandi Rosner) as well as the beret and the pinwheel sweater. I wear this beret almost every day. It looks great on my head, with just enough slouch. This hat is designed to fit an average adult female's head, 20-21" around. A great resource for making a similar hat using any weight yarn and gauge is on Kirsten Kapur's blog, which I just discovered tonight through Ravelry. Some other great hat patterns are on her blog as well as gloves, scarves, etc. I also found a very similar pattern this morning on Amy (Java Twist's) blog. Great minds think alike.

I used less than 2 skeins of Stahl Limbo Color, a superwash DK weight, self striping yarn with a subtle color variegation, 135 yds. per 50 gram skein. You could use a solid color, a tweed or heather, or use up leftover yarn and stripe the beret. Worsted weight yarn should also work.

I'm making one using rose pink Malabrigo worsted (aran weight) on size 8 needles right now, at a larger gauge, so I'll knit fewer increase rounds before decreasing for the bottom of the beret. It looks like it will need 20 stitches in each section, 160 total, to make a 12" diameter circle before decreasing. I think I'll call this one the Raspberry Beret, or maybe the Red Beret? I stayed up way too late last knit knitting this one. Hopefully my DD won't steal it out of hands as soon as it's finished.

Gauge for the heavier weight yarn : 18 st/24 rounds over 4 inches

Direct PDF link for the Raspberry Beret pattern

There was a wonderful documentary about Pete Seeger on PBS that I had to finish watching. I had tears in my eyes when he sang Guantanamera with Arlo Guthrie and his own grandson, Tao Rodríguez- Seeger. Pete and I share a birthday. I think I'll have to design a pattern to honor him that day. He'll be 89 and I'll be ... ahem, not that old.

4.5 mm (US 7) 16" circular needle
4.5 mm (US 7) set of five double pointed needles (DPN's)

You will also need a set of smaller (4 mm, US 6) DPN's or 16" circular to knit the ribbing (optional).

If you prefer, use the two circular or magic loop methods to knit this hat. The first few rounds are tricky, so I like to use wooden double points that the yarn will stick to.

Gauge: 22 stitches and 28 rounds over 4 inches/10 cm on size 7 US (4.5mm) needles

Using the 4.5mm double-pointed needles, cast on 4 stitches. Place 1 stitch on each needle.

Round 1: Join into a round, being careful not to twist the stitches. Knit into the front and the back of each stitch - 8 stitches in this round.

Mark the beginning of the round with a stitch marker and move this marker up every round.

Round 2 and all even numbered rounds: Knit.
Round 3: *K1 , YO*, repeat between *'s to end of round, making sure you make your last yo on each needle or beginning of the new needle. 4 sts on each needle, 16 total stitches
Round 5: *K2, YO*, repeat between *'s to end of round. (6 sts on each needle)
Round 7: *K3, YO*, repeat between *'s to end of round. (8 sts on each needle)
Round 9: *K4, YO*, repeat between *'s to end of round. (10 sts on each needle)
Round 11: *K5, YO*, repeat between *'s to end of round. (12 sts on each needle)
Round 13: *K6, YO*, repeat between *'s to end of round. (14 sts on each needle, 56 total stitches)

Switch to knitting on the 16" circular needle whenever you have enough stitches to knit comfortably, or use two longer circulars or magic loop from the beginning.

Continue increasing in this manner, changing to the circular needle when possible, until you have 21 stitches between increases (176 stitches total). Beret should measure about 12" across at this point. I inserted an attempt at a pattern stitch, which will be the rolled edge of the beret and looks very pretty. Some easy one round stitch pattern suggestions:

Round 1: *YO, SL 1, K2 TOG, PSSO, YO, K2*, repeat between *'s to end of round.
Rounds 2 & 4: Knit around
Round 3: *K2, YO, SL 1, K2 TOG, PSSO, YO*, repeat between *'s to end of round.

OR: The 4 round lace/texture pattern of your choice. Maybe a bobble pattern? I'm going to try a stranded or slip stitch design using some leftover Malabrigo in a different color.

After four rounds of pattern stitch (or just 4 plain knitting rounds), begin decreasing for the brim of the hat.

1st decrease round: *Knit 6, K2 TOG*, repeat between *'s to end of round (154 stitches)
Rounds 2-3: Knit around
2nd decrease round: *Knit 5, K2 TOG*, repeat between *'s to end of round (132 stitches)
Rounds 5-6: Knit around
3rd decrease round: *Knit 4, K2 TOG*, repeat between *'s to end of round, (110 stitches)
Rounds 8-9: Knit around
4th decrease round: *Knit 3, K2 TOG*, repeat between *'s to end of round, (88 stitches)

Switch to the smaller needles at this point (or not) and begin ribbing pattern.

Ribbing Pattern: *K2, P2*, repeat between *'s to end of round

Repeat the last round of ribbing for 8-10 rounds. Bind off in pattern. Weave in ends, block using a large plate as a form. and wear with pride.

Corrections to Fish Scales Pattern

I ran into a little trouble making my second sock.

Here is the corrected Fishtail Lace stitch pattern in its entirety:

Multiple of 8 stitches

Round 1: K1, *YO, K2, SL1, K2tog, PSSO, K2, YO, K1* repeat between *’s to end

Rounds 2, 4 & 6: Knit

Round 3: K2, *YO, K1, SL1, K2tog, PSSO, K1, YO, K3* repeat between *’s to last 6 stitches, end YO, K1, SL1, K2tog, PSSO, K1, YO, K1

Round 5: K3, *YO, SL1, K2tog, PSSO, YO, K5* repeat between *’s to last 5 stitches, end YO, SL1, K2tog, PSSO, YO, K2

Repeat these 6 rounds for pattern.

Sock Number One is Finished

Corrected 9/22/07
I finally finished the first sock of my most recent self designed pattern. Basically, I take a stitch pattern and plug it into my favorite basic sock pattern that fits me, but here it is if you are interested. I think that if I make this pattern again I'll leave an open area, or maybe a cable, between the lace repeats. The stitch pattern is Fishtail Lace, from the 365 stitch patterns calendar, and the yarn has a strand of glittery thread woven through it, so it's fish scales. I made my socks with 72 stitches, but my ankles are thick. The pattern is written for normal sized ankles. I wear a size 8.5" shoe, and I had about 10" of yarn left over, so you should be able to make a pair of 64 stitch socks up to about a women's size 11 shoe with 460 yds. of sock weight yarn.

Fish Scales Socks

Knitted on one 12" Circular Needle

Sized to fit Women's Medium (size 8 feet)
Gauge: 8 sts and 9 rows to the inch in stockinette.

Supplies Needed:

Size 2.5 MM Addi Turbo(r) Circular needle (U.S. size 1 (1.5) (or the size needed to achieve gauge)

Size 2.5 mm or 2.25 mm (1 U.S.) double point needles, which you will need for the heel and the toes, set of 5.

I prefer using a 12" ADDI turbo circular to knit my sock, so that's how this pattern is written. It can certainly be knit using any method you prefer. See my post about using markers instead of needles to avoid ladders and convert any pattern to your preferred method of knitting.

100 grams of Sisu Glitter sock yarn. This pattern will also look nice in solid, semi solid or self striping yarns.

2 small circular markers

Abbreviations:

CO = Cast on
K = Knit
KW = knit wise, or inserting your needle into the next stitch as if you were going to knit it
P = Purl
PSSO = Pass the slipped stitch over the stitch you just knitted (just like binding off)
PW = purl wise, or inserting your needle into the next stitch as if you were going to purl it
SL = Slip
SSK = slip a st PW to right needle, slip a second st KW to right needle, then move them back to the left needle knit those two together
TOG = together (as in K2TOG: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch)
YO = Bring the yarn to the front of the work as if you were going to purl. Instead, bring the yarn back over the needle and knit the next stitch. This creates a hole, and a new stitch, which must be accounted for with an accompanying decrease
DD = Double Decrease (K1, SL1, K2 TOG, PSSO)

Sock Pattern
CO 64 sts. Join, being careful not to twist, and knit in 2 X 2 rib for 1 1/2 to 2 inches. *Knit 2, Purl 2*, repeat between *'s around.

Fishtail Lace Pattern Stitch (8 stitch repeat) Corrected/Edited 9/22/07

Round 1: k1, *YO, k2, sl1, k2tog, psso (DD), k2, yo, k1*; rep between *’s
Round 3: k2, *YO, k1, sl1, k2tog, psso (DD), k1, yo, k3*; repeat between *’s until last stitch, end k1
Round 5: k3, *YO, sl1, k2tog, psso (DD), yo, k5*; repeat between *’s until last 2 stitches, end k2

Rounds 2, 4 & 6: Knit around
Repeats rounds 1-6 for pattern

Place a marker at the join. The striping pattern of most yarns should look nice at this gauge. Knit around in the fishtail lace pattern stitch until the sock tube measures 6-7 inches long (slightly stretched), ending with round 5 of the lace pattern.

Remove marker until the heel is finished. Change to double pointed needles (or keep using two circulars or one long magic loop circular), keeping the instep stitches on the circular needle (or another holder). I knit the heel on double point needles. Knit across the first 32 stitches. This is the first row of the heel.

Heel: Eye of Partridge with slipped stitch edge (EOP)

Row 1: *slip 1, K1,* repeat between *'s to end

Row 2: slip 1, P to end

Row 3: slip 1, K1, *k1, slip 1,* repeat between *'s to last 2 sts, end K2 (Don’t end with a slipped stitch.) This alternates the slipped stitches, creating the EOP pattern. I originally discovered (unvented) this variation when I made a mistake doing the heel stitch and liked what I created. Later on I learned that it had a name. Many patterns will have you slip two stitches at the start of row 3, then K1, SL1, but for stability I prefer to have two knit stitches in a row instead of two slipped stitches.

Row 4: repeat Row 2.

Knit in this pattern until heel flap is 2 1/4 - 2 1/2 inches long. This is a matter of personal preference. Measure the bare foot of the intended recipient from floor to middle of ankle bone to determine the correct measurement. You can also knit until the heel flap is square, as many patterns state, but with the eye of partridge stitch drawing in the heel I prefer to use an actual measurement.

Heel turn: (round heel) Thanks to Dave Mackay's "heels by number" which was the inspiration for these.

(Note: SSK = slip a st PW* to right needle, slip a second st KW* to right needle, then knit those two together)

Row 1: slip 1, knit 18, ssk, k 1, turn

Row 2: slip 1, purl 5, p2tog, p1, turn

Row 3: slip 1, knit 6, ssk, k1, turn

Row 4: slip 1, purl 7, p2tog, p 1, turn.

Continue on, adding one st knitted or purled at the center of the row until all sts have been worked. I try to keep knitting the heel turn in the EOP stitch, but it's not essential. You should be ending with a knit row. If not, knit across the heel until you reach the first pick up edge.

Using a new double point needle, pick up & knit one st from each slipped st along the edge of the heel flap (about 20). If there is a little gap where the heel meets the instep stitches, pick up a strand and twist it, then knit it to close the hole. If you have to, pick up another loose area and repeat the process. Place the first marker here. Knit across the 32 instep stitches (still waiting patiently on the circular needle holder) , place the second marker. This will be round 6 of the fishtail lace stitch (plain knit), which you didn't knit earlier. Pick up & knit stitches on the opposite side of heel flap, knit across heel flap to three stitches from first marker. You should have about 88-96 stitches on the needle at this point. It is not critical to have an exact number of stitches, as you will continue to decrease the extra stitches away until you return to the same number that you started with.

NOTE: I've recently rediscovered a great band heel which mitigates the wider heel stripes and all decrease rounds at this great site. I knit my last two pairs using this heel and it is very nice. I still use the EOP slip stitch, which means I have to add a few rows to the heel flap before decreasing. Then I have a few decrease rounds after picking up the gusset stitches. Thanks to Nan for this great pattern and tutorial, and to Nancy Bush for popularizing the band heel.

Decrease Rounds:

Three stitches from the first marker, K2 TOG, K 1. Slip marker, and knit across the 32 stitch instep in the fishtail lace pattern to the second marker, slip it, K 1, SSK, knit around to the first marker. Around this point you will want to change back to using the circular needle. Knit one round without decreasing (or two, if you like a slower rate of decrease for a higher instep), and repeat decrease round. Repeat decrease and plain knit rounds until 64 sts remain on the needle, 32 on the instep and 32 on the foot. Knit plain, without decreasing, and keeping the instep stitches in the lace pattern and the foot stitches in stockinette, until the foot is about 7.25" long (2 to 2 1/2 inches less than desired length). .

Wedge toe:

Round 1: Knit to last 3 sts before first marker, k2 tog, k1, slip marker, K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts before second marker, K2 TOG, K1, slip marker, K1, SSK.

Round 2: Knit around in stockinette stitch.

Change to double pointed needles again when you have too few stitches to go around the circular needle easily. Repeat these two rounds until 16 sts remain. Divide the 16 sts between 2 needles at the markers and Kitchener stitch (graft) them together (or do a 3-needle bind off like I do).

Now knit the second sock!

Copyright 2007 Margie Dougherty

All rights reserved. You may print this pattern and share it with others, providing this notice remains attached.

Hogwarts Sock Swap

I finally sent off my Hogwarts sock swap package to Shannon in Maryland on Friday. She received it by special delivery Owl post on Tuesday! That owl must have been caffeinated or something. I've never had a package fly so fast all the way from California to the East Coast. It must be the higher rates the owls are charging now. I couldn't post any pictures earlier because Shannon had figured out who I was and I didn't want to spoil the surprise. She also took wonderful pictures and said I could use them.

I modified the Horcrux sock pattern quite a lot to make this pair for Shannon. I used the fingering weight version of the pattern that Susan shared with the Six Socks KAL Yahoo group. I also striped the top ribbing, left out the ribbing after the lace, added a reversed repeat of the Horcrux lace and a slip stitch stripe, used my usual eye of partridge flap heel, made the foot solid stockinette and crenelated the toe to look like the Hogwarts School ramparts (and reintroduce the grey yarn to make the socks look complete.)

My DD Elanor (age 26) was my creative consultant on this project. If she had been a Slytherin Shannon might never have received this pair! I'm proud and happy to say that I used my stash yarn to make these socks. If I had received a Gryffindor or Hufflepuff pal I would have had to shop for those colors, because, amazingly, they are not in my stash of almost 300 skeins of sock yarn. These socks took me just a week to make, although it took 2 months for me to get around to weaving in all of the yarn tails.


Thank you to Shannon for being patient and sharing her pictures with me (and the world) and to Rebecca for having the idea and hosting the swap. If you want to sign up for round two the signups open on the 14th. Click on Rebecca's name for the information.

This is what was in the package I sent to Shannon. I even ordered special bamboo sock needles from Astrid's Dutch Obsessions. Of course, along with the needles came quite a few skeins of sock yarn. Maybe I should have shared one of those with Shannon too. Oh well, hindsight. I am going to send her the leftover green and grey sock yarn to make a mini Horcrux sock for her keychain.

Number Nine Socks

I finished the RPM socks from Knitty last night, pair number nine for the 52 pair plunge. Sorry the picture is so bad. The dark colors in this Fleece Artist yarn don't show up well on screen. It's the colorway Parrot: blues, greens, fuschias and purples, all very luscious. These are definitely winter socks, though. The yarn is really thick and squishy, especially in the spiral rib pattern.

A finished pair is a good thing, since the new summer Knitty came out and there are several good sock patterns included. The Spring Knitty also had some great sock patterns (not to mention some great cardigans.) Of course, I didn't start a new sock project from either of those sources. I started knitting a lace sock from the 365 Stitch patterns calender. (January 17th, Feather Lace.) I'm using some aqua Sisu yarn that has silver thread wrapped around it that I just got a few weeks ago. It's looking good so far, although not quite like the pattern image. I may need to block the lace.

I'm also working on my Jaywalkers in Jitterbug in Jay (Colinette). I thought the color name was appropriate. It's an incredible mix of turquoise, teal, purple, jade, olive and kelly green, and the Jaywalker pattern shows off the stripes very well. The color doesn't really look like any blue jay I've ever seen, though. I still remember the somewhat domesticated bird that would hop into my mom's kitchen through the open window and eat all the butter off the dish.

Finished Socks!

of the 52 pair plunge challenge!

I finished the toe on sock two of my vine lace stripe socks last night while watching the season finale of The Riches. (Interesting show, very different.)

I also finished sock number 1 of the RPM socks I started a few weeks ago (my mindless knitting project). They are made from Fleece Artist Merino in the parrot colorway, blues, greens, purples, magentas. Just lovely. I have cast on for sock two, so hopefully that pair will be finished next week. Because of the broken spiral rib pattern, the socks look really funny off the leg, very poofy. They look great all stretched out, though. This yarn was so dark it was hard to see any patterning at all, so I think the simple spiral works well.

Vine Lace Summer Socks Pattern

In honor of Memorial Day, the traditional start of summer weather and activities, but also so much more. Take a minute tomorrow at 3:00 pm local time to remember those who have died serving our country in war and peace. Memorial Day started after the Civil War as Decoration Day, when people would go to the cemetary to clean up graves and place flags and flowers.

The actual stitch pattern for these socks has been around for awhile. I'm not sure where I found it the first time. I was looking for a stitch pattern for some new yarn and found it in my stitch library (culled from many sources, web and print based). It may be in one of the Walker Treasuries. A sock designed by Kathy Garguild is one of my favorites from the book Socks Socks Socks by XRX Books. (1999) When I do a search on the term vine lace sock (and variations) I don't come up with the reference where I got the pattern. I swatched with ribbing at the top and then started the pattern. After a few inches I decided that I didn't like how the sock looked. I did like how the yarn's soft stripes looked in the vine lace pattern. I ripped it out and started over with a simple garter edge, which ripples a little bit because of the chevron of the lace stitch. A better picture is coming soon.

Vine Lace Stripe Sock Pattern
Knitted on one 12" Circular Needle

Sized to fit Women's Medium (size 8 feet)
Gauge: 8.5 sts and 9 rows to the inch in stockinette.

Supplies Needed:

Size 2.0 MM Addi Turbo(r) Circular needle (U.S. size 0) (or the size needed to achieve gauge)

Size 2.0 mm or 2.25 mm (1 U.S.) double point needles, which you will need for the heel and the toes, set of 5.

I prefer using a 12" ADDI turbo circular to knit my sock, so that's how this pattern is written. It can certainly be knit using any method you prefer. See my post about using markers instead of needles to avoid ladders and convert any pattern to your preferred method of knitting.

100 grams of Opal Cotton/Wool Blend in the Hundertwasser Positive/Negative colorway. You may also use another cotton and wool blend fingering weight (sock) yarn such as Regia, Meilenweit, Lang Jawoll or Sockotta, or try Tofutsies or the new Bamboo blends. This pattern will look nice in solids or self striping yarns, or a yarn like the one I chose, which is a little bit of both. I'm not big on wearing the red, white and blue, but this pattern might work well in that yarn too.

2 small circular markers

Abbreviations:

CO = Cast on
K = Knit
KW = knit wise, or inserting your needle into the next stitch as if you were going to knit it
P = Purl
PSSO = Pass the slipped stitch over the stitch you just knitted (just like binding off)
PW = purl wise, or inserting your needle into the next stitch as if you were going to purl it
SL = Slip
SSK = slip a st PW to right needle, slip a second st KW to right needle, then move them back to the left needle knit those two together
TOG = together (as in K2TOG: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch)
YO = Bring the yarn to the front of the work as if you were going to purl. Instead, bring the yarn back over the needle and knit the next stitch. This creates a hole, and a new stitch, which must be accounted for with an accompanying decrease

Sock Pattern
CO 72 sts. Join, being careful not to twist, and knit in garter stitch for 6 rounds, ending with a knit round.

Garter Stitch in the Round:

Round 1: Purl
Round 2: Knit
Repeats rounds 1 and 2 for as many rounds as you want

Vine Lace Stripe Pattern Stitch (9 stitch repeat)

Round 1: *K1, yo, k2, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k2, yo*; rep between *’s
Round 3: *yo, k2, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k2, yo, k1*; repeat between *’s
Rounds 2 & 4: Knit
Repeats rounds 1-4 for pattern

Place a marker at join. The striping pattern of most yarns should look nice for both sizes at this gauge. Knit around in the vine lace pattern stitch until sock tube measures 5-6 inches long (stretched out), ending with round 1 or 3 of the lace pattern.

NOTE: Don't worry when you first start knitting the lace pattern. The sock will flare out and look like a flower and you'll swear it will never fit anyone but Bigfoot. Not to worry, keep knitting a few repeats of the lace and the sock will calm down. The top does flop over a bit when not on the foot. I don't find this to be a problem. If it really bothers you, you can knit a few more rounds of garter stitch before beginning the lace pattern. The lace does not have a lot of widthwise stretch (think Jaywalker).

Remove marker until the heel is finished. Change to double pointed needles (or keep using two circulars or one long magic loop circular), keeping the instep stitches on the circular needle. I knit the heel on double points. Knit across the first 36 stitches. This is the first row of the heel.

Heel: Eye of Partridge with slipped stitch edge (EOP)

Row 1: *slip 1, K1,* repeat between *'s to end

Row 2: slip 1, P to end

Row 3: slip 1, K1, *k1, slip 1,* repeat between *'s to last 2 sts, end K2 (Don’t end with a slipped stitch.) This alternates the slipped stitches, creating the EOP pattern. I originally discovered (unvented) this variation when I made a mistake doing the heel sitch and liked what I created. Later on I learned that it had a name. Many patterns will have you slip two stitches at the start of round 3, then K1, SL1, but for stability I prefer to have two knit stitches in a row instead of two slipped stitches.

Row 4: repeat Row 2.

Knit in this pattern until heel flap is 2 1/4 - 2 1/2 inches long. This is a matter of personal preference. Measure the bare foot of the intended recipient from floor to middle of ankle bone to determine the correct measurement. You can also knit until the heel flap is square, as many patterns state, but with the eye of partridge stitch drawing in the heel I prefer to use an actual measurement.

Heel turn: (round heel) Thanks to Dave Mackay's "heels by number" which was the inspiration for these.

(Note: SSK = slip a st PW* to right needle, slip a second st KW* to right needle, then knit those two together)

Row 1: slip 1, knit 18, ssk, k 1, turn

Row 2: slip 1, purl 5, p2tog, p1, turn

Row 3: slip 1, knit 6, ssk, k1, turn

Row 4: slip 1, purl 7, p2tog, p 1, turn.

Continue on, adding one st knitted or purled at the center of the row until all sts have been worked. I try to keep knitting the heel turn in the EOP stitch, but it's not essential. You should be ending with a knit row. If not, knit across the heel until you reach the first pick up edge.

Using a new double point needle, pick up & knit one st from each slipped st along the edge of the heel flap (about 20). If there is a little gap where the heel meets the instep stitches, pick up a strand and twist it, then knit it to close the hole. If you have to, pick up another loose area and repeat the process. Place the first marker here. Knit across the 36 instep stitches (still waiting patiently on the circular needle holder), place second marker. This will be round 2 or 4 of the vine lace stitch (plain knit), which you didn't knit earlier. Pick up & knit stitches on the opposite side of heel flap, knit across heel flap to three stitches from first marker. You should have about 96-104 stitches on the needle at this point. It is not critical to have an exact number of stitches, as you will continue to decrease the extra stitches away until you return to the same number that you started with.

NOTE: I've recently rediscovered a great band heel which mitigates the wider heel stripes and all decrease rounds at this great site. I knit my last two pairs using this heel and it is very nice. I still use the EOP slip stitch, which means I have to add a few rows to the heel flap before decreasing. Then I have a few decrease rounds after picking up the gusset stitches. Thanks to Nan for this great pattern and tutorial, and to Nancy Bush for popularizing the band heel.

Decrease Rounds:

Three stitches from first marker, K2 TOG, K 1. Slip marker, and knit across the 36 stitch instep in the vine lace pattern to the second marker, slip it, K 1, SSK, knit around to the first marker. Around this point you will want to change back to using the circular needle. Knit one round without decreasing (or two, if you like a slower rate of decrease for a higher instep), and repeat decrease round. Repeat decrease and plain knit rounds until 72 sts remain on the needle, 36 on the instep and 36 on the foot. Knit plain, without decreasing, and keeping the instep stitches in the lace pattern and the foot stitches in stockinette, until the foot is about 7.25" long (2 to 2 1/2 inches less than desired length). .

Wedge toe:

Round 1: Knit to last 3 sts before first marker, k2 tog, k1, slip marker, K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts before second marker, K2 TOG, K1, slip marker, K1, SSK.

Round 2: Knit around in stockinette stitch.

Change to double pointed needles again when you have too few stitches to go around the circular needle easily. Repeat these two rounds until 18 sts remain. Divide the 18 sts between 2 needles at markers and Kitchener stitch (graft) them together or do a 3-needle bind off like me.

Now knit the second sock!

Copyright 2007 Margie Dougherty

All rights reserved. You may print this pattern and share it with others, providing this notice remains attached.

Stash Enhancement

My (stash enabling) knitter friend & neighbor emailed me that she added a new rule to her personal knit from your stash guidelines. If the yarn is new to you, you are allowed to buy it. (Don't know if that means you can buy one skein or a whole project's worth.) I liked that rule. For her, it meant she could buy Colinette's new Jitterbug sock yarn. For me, it meant that I could use my birthday money and order a whole squishy full of new to me sock yarns from Astrid in the Netherlands. (They arrived yesterday.)

I got some Opal Bamboo in grey stripes for DH's socks, some Trekking Pro Natura (wool/bamboo in solid colors), some pale blue Regia silk, some Opal wool/cotton in the Hundertwasser artist colorways (the Positive/Negative yellow color is just luscious), some Trekking in pink and charcoal (very 50's), also some of the tweed and an interesting speckled color, and a skein each of Fortissima Socka Colori, Opal Smoke and Gedifra, each in various different blue and grey self striping colorways. It's a good thing I like blue! Those three skeins were on sale, and blue and grey always works well for gift socks. Average price with shipping, $11.00 per pair of socks. Astrid also sent 5 free sock patterns and a bonus skein of white angora yarn, and I got some 6" long bamboo double points to try out. I think I might also get some Jitterbug yarn. After this, though, NO MORE SOCK YARN for me, unless I trade other sock yarn for it.

I swatched for a new pair of socks using the Opal Hundertwasser cotton/wool blend. After considering the Quill lace pattern from the Spring Knitty, plus a few other simple lace patterns, I think that the Vine lace stripe pattern from the Socks Socks Socks book is going to work out best for this yarn. It's a simple 4 round repeat, easily memorized, which isn't totally obscured by the pattern of the yarn.

Last year I got inspired to compile pattern conversions for some of the stitches in the 365 Stitches calendar and the Barbara Walker Treasuries to knit in the round, for socks and other circular items. I now have a big Word document complete with images and the stitch patterns all typed out, along with multiples and repeats. I've also added stitches and images from sock patterns as I find them. At this rate I won't need a new sock pattern ever again.

Sunday Seven Quatorze

Seven things that I'm grateful for this week:

1. Fluffy dwarf rabbits who feel so warm and cuddly. We'll forgive the shedding, it's just more fiber to knit with!
2. Gilmore Girls fans
   
3. Strawberries fresh from the garden
4. Sourdough bread
5. Completed hand knit socks
6. Suzi's Knits research on sock yarn gauges
7. Deb Barnhill's sock knitting time trials

I've been Remiss

It's been a busy few weeks, and the only posts I've made are the really easy ones, with almost nothing about knitting. I've been knitting all along, just not writing about it. I finished one of my Monkey socks and am halfway down the leg on sock two. The second sock should be finished this weekend, just in time to meet my 52 Pair Plunge goal of a finished pair every week. This is one of the easiest patterns I've ever knit and it looks so wonderful knitted up. Sorry for the terrible picture, more to come.

Unless I wanted to knit with sportweight yarn, I had to add an entire repeat to the pattern to enlarge it. Since the repeat was a huge 16 stitches, making a total of 80 stitches cast on, I tightened the gauge so the sock wouldn't be too large for even my fat ankles. I cast on 72 stitches with a 2.25 mm needle and knit my ribbing. On the first round of the pattern I increased 8 stitches evenly around. I knit 5 repeats of the pattern 9 times, lengthening the leg a little bit.

When I got to the heel I realized that since I had 5 repeats of the pattern, it would not divide evenly. It was at this point that I realized the error of my ways. I centered the heel over 2 repeats and knit my new favorite, the band heel. I tightened the gauge a little bit more (went down to a 2 mm needle) and knit the foot of the sock with 3 repeats of the pattern stitch on the instep (48 stitches) and 32 stitches on the sole in stockinette. At the toe I adjusted the markers so that the top and bottom had the same amount of stitches to do the decreases. I also ran out of yarn. Panic ensued. This is the same wonderful yarn Cookie A used in her sample sock, although I used a different color way. It's hand dyed, and I've had the yarn in my stash for several years. I should have known this might happen, given that I knit more repeats on the leg and added 16 stitches around, but I went blithely on knitting. A search of my stash revealed several possible substitutions to knit the toe with. Lorna's Laces semi solids are wonderful yarns in the same weight and subtle colors. I had periwinkle and denim blue, left over from other sock projects. I held both colors up to the SIP and the periwinkle looked more promising. 20 decrease rounds later and sock one was finished. I immediately cast on for sock two, not wanting to slow the momentum & miss meeting my goal. I'm about ready to turn the heel, so I will now return you to your regularly scheduled program and get back to knittng.
UPDATE: Sock two was finished Monday 5/7/07!

Thanks so much to Cookie for another wonderful sock pattern. The first time I knit one of her patterns it was the Pomatomus. I would recommend getting your feet wet with the Monkey socks before tackling the Pomatomus, but it is another pattern that is well worth the effort. Several more Cookie A patterns are on my short list of future sock projects.

Four Pairs Down, 48 More to Knit

I finished my 4th pair for the month of April. Only 48 more to go for the 52 pair plunge challenge. The socks are based on the Horcrux pattern by Susan Pierce Lawrence, but I made major alterations to it. No pictures yet because these socks are for my Hogwarts swap pal. The original pattern, knitted in worsted weight yarn, is available on Susan's blog. A fingering weight version is available to members of the Six Sock KAL Yahoo group. Anyone can join this group. It's a great group of socknitters who knit original sock patterns bimonthly.

I started this pair last Sunday and finished them today. One week from start to finish! That might be a new record for me. In order to keep up with the 52 pair plunge, I'm trying to cast on for sock two as soon as I finish sock one and keep knitting. Usually I start a new sock project when I finish sock one and come back to sock two after working on a few different designs. This helps to alleviate the boredom factor and makes the pattern fresh again.

I also finished another sock this week and made some beaded stitch markers. I got a multicolored bag of silver lined seed beads, and my DD makes macrame beaded necklaces, so she had some larger beads to add to the mix. She pressed some white mother of pearl beads on me, which I used to make a rainbow set. Each marker uses a pearl bead and two beads of a rainbow color. I think they are my favorite, but I've always been a sucker for rainbow colors. I'm using the turqouise beaded marker on my new sock project. I also got some oval Czech glass beads to use for my Hogwarts sock swap partner, so I made some Gryffindor and some Slytherin markers. Some of the Czech beads were purple with red, green and pink swirls, so I added pink or red seed beads to them. I think I made about 25 sets of 5 markers, and I have lots more beads to make new designs. I'll post pictures when I figure out how to use the camera. I haven't done my laundry yet and I need a pair of pants to wear to work tomorrow, so I'm off to fill the washer.

Sunday Seven Eleven

Seven Things I'm grateful for this week:

1. Cookie A's creative sock patterns. I'm working on the Monkey pattern from Knitty's winter issue right now.
   
2. Shelridge Farms soft touch ultra hand painted sock yarn. I'm using this for my Monkey socks.
3. Pony Pearl double point needles in small sizes and 6" length. They are perfect for the Monkey socks.
4. April 15th is on a Sunday this year.
5. Clarinex allergy medication
6. Lettuce fresh out of the garden
7. Spring asparagus

Knitter's Treat Swap Questions

I signed up for yet another swap/exchange. These are fun! I have to post the questionnaire on my blog, so here goes.

1. What's your favourite type of yarn?
SOFT! (angora, silk, cotton, linen, chenille, superwash wool, bamboo)
2. What's your least favourite type of yarn?
SCRATCHY! (mohair, Lopi, shetland wool, rayon chenille, acrylic)
3. What's the first thing you do when you visit a new yarn shop?
Touch all the sock yarn, then go to the sale section and feel the yarn there.
4. What other crafts do you do / would like to do?
quilting, dyeing fabric & yarn, crochet, hmmmmmmm...fiber art in general
5. What magazines do you currently subscribe to? Too many!
Knitter's, Interweave Knits, Knit Simple, Creative Knitting, Knit n'Style, Vogue Knitting, Quilter's Newsletter, American Quilter, Sunset, Time, National Geographic, Smithsonian
6. Put this type of magazine in order of preference:
Knitting / Garden / Food / Home / Crochet / Other Craft / Fashion (Isn't knitting fashion?) / Celebrity Gossip
7. What items do you like to knit / crochet?
Socks, felted bags, slippers, sweaters, hats, scarves
8. Are you allergic to anything?
Mohair, yak hair, perfume, cigarette smoke, dust and mold.
9. What do you like to* smell of?
(*This is not a typo. The question is: What do you like to smell of)
lavender, vanilla or chocolate? I can't smell, so definitely not perfume, especially after I figured out I was allergic to it.
10. What's your favourite way to relax?
knitting or reading (or both together!)
11. You're stood in front of a Victorian style sweetshop, an Italian cafe, an old fashioned bakery and a dainty tea room. Where do you go first?
Wow, that's a hard one. I think the Italian cafe.
12. What do you come out with?
A mocha and an almond biscotti dipped in chocolate, plus a cannoli for later.
13. Where do you go next?
The yarn store of course! Unless I have to go to another one of the sweet shops. I'd choose the bakery next, or maybe....it's just too hard.
14. Any other words of wisdom for your pal?
Have fun, enjoy life, knit socks, and drink wisely

The Dreaded Kitchener Stitch

I tried it once, on my first practice sock. Not a pretty sight. Then I discovered the three needle bind off and that's how I finish all of my sock toes. I can't feel the seam at all, so I don't bother with Kitchener. If someone else who I am l knitting socks for is bothered by the seam, I will do a star toe instead. Anything to avoid the dreaded Kitchener.

Honeycomb Slip Stitch Sock Pattern

A (nearly new) sock pattern in honor of what would have been my grandmother's 106th birthday today. She taught me to sew and made my Barbie a real mink stole (which I still have) from a scrap of someone's mink coat, brown satin and a rhinestone button. I moved this pattern from my old website so it would be more available. I prefer using a 12" ADDI turbo circular to knit my sock, so that's how this pattern is written. It can certainly be knit using any method you prefer. See my post about using markers instead of needles to avoid ladders and convert any pattern to your preferred method of knitting.

The inspiration for these socks came from Knitter's Magazine, Spring 2001. A baby sweater and hat in pastel "Look at Me" yarn was featured using this slip stitch pattern. Another socknitter posted a picture of her sock in progress using the rainbow sock yarn and this stitch pattern, and I took it from there. I'm sorry I can't remember her name to give her credit for the inspiration. She did give me her blessing to share this pattern. I've also made a hat using the same idea and worsted weight yarn, which my DD wears snowboarding.

This pattern could also be knitted using leftover balls of sock yarn for the main color and a solid color as the contrast. You would then need one skein of solid color yarn and lots of leftovers. I would divide my leftovers into two equal size balls (or use different leftover yarn on each sock to make true Monstersocken.)

Materials:
CC:1 ball, 50 grm/200 yds Variegated Sock Weight Yarn
Lorna's Laces Socknitter's Rainbow was used for these socks. You won't need the whole skein for the pair of socks, especially if you knit the plain foot. I'd estimate that I used the amount of yarn left over from knitting another pair.
MC:2 balls, 50 grm/200 yds Dark Sock Yarn (High Contrast) I used Special Blauband in a navy with primary color bits twisted in.

Size 2.5 mm ADDI Turbo circular needle (or size needed to achieve gauge)
Size 2.25 mm (1 US) double point needles, which you will need for knitting the heels and toes.

Note: The picture shows the foot knitted with a slip stitch stripe pattern, but the pattern is written with a plain foot. I used Karen (Wren) Hoyle's pattern for garter bar slip stitch for the foot in this sock, but I changed the purl stitches to knits so the sock felt smoother around the foot. I would recommend you knit a plain foot, because of the problems encountered with the slip stitch pattern when you decrease. Another option would be to use the band heel, or a short row heel.

Because the slip stitch pattern does not have any stretch, and I cast on my normal number of stitches, these socks did not fit me. Remember to swatch! I gave these socks to my sister in law for her 50th birthday, and she gets many compliments whenever she wears them.

SIZE: Woman's Medium Women's Large/Man's Medium in ( )
GAUGE: 8 sts = 1" worked in pattern stitch on size 2.5mm needles

HONEYCOMB SLIP STITCH PATTERN
Repeat of 8 stitches
Round 1, CC Knit around
Round 2, CC Purl around**
Round 3, using MC *Knit 6, slip 2 KW*, repeat between *'s
Round 4, 5, 6 Repeat Row 3
Round 7 repeat Row 1
Round 8 repeat Row 2**
Round 9 using MC K2, *SL2, K 6*, repeat between *'s, end K4
Rounds 10, 11, 12 Repeat Row 9
Repeat Rounds 1-12 for pattern
**If you like, change rounds 2 & 8 from purl to knit to get a smooth texture.

Knitting the Sock
Using MC, CO 64 (72) sts. Join, being careful not to twist, and K2, P2 for 1-2". Place a marker at join. Knit around in slip stitch pattern, slipping marker every round, until sock tube measures 7 inches long, ending with Row 6 or 12 of pattern. Remove marker until heel is finished.

Heel:
Change to double pointed needles, keeping the instep stitches on the circular needle. Drop CC and knit heel flap and foot with MC. Knit the heel on double point needles over the first 32 (36) sts.

Heel: Eye of Partridge with slipped st edge
Row 1: *slip 1 KW*, k1,* repeat between *'s to end
Row 2: slip 1, p to end
Row 3: slip 1 KW*, k2, *slip 1, K1* repeat between *'s to last 2 sts, end k2 (don't end with a slip stitch)
Row 4: repeat Row 2.
Knit this four row heel pattern until heel flap is 2 1/4 - 2 1/2 (2 3/4 - 3) inches long. This is a matter of personal preference. Measure the foot of the intended recipient from floor to top of ankle bone (inside ankle) to determine the correct measurement.

Heel turn: (round heel)
Thanks to David Mackay's Heels by Number which was the inspiration for these. This invaluable chart can now be found on the socknitter's site.
(Note: SSK = slip a stitch KW* to right needle, slip a second stitch KW to right needle, then knit those two together)
Row 1: slip 1, knit 16 (18), ssk, k 1, turn
Row 2: slip 1, purl 5, p2tog, p1, turn
Row 3: slip 1, knit 6, ssk, k1, turn
Row 4: slip 1, purl 7, p2tog, p 1, turn.
Continue on, adding one st knitted or purled at the center of the row until all sts have been worked. You should be ending with a knit row. If not, knit across the heel using the Eye of Partridge pattern until you reach the pick up edge. Using a new double point needle, pick up and knit one st from each slipped st along the edge of the heel flap (about 20). Place first marker here. Knit across the instep stitches which were not part of the heel, place second marker. Pick up and knit stitches on opposite side of heel flap, knit across heel flap to three stitches from first marker. You should have about 96-104 stitches on the needle at this point.

Decrease (Gusset) Rounds: Three stitches from first marker, k 2 tog, k 1. Slip marker. Knit across instep to second marker, slip it, k 1, SSK, knit around to the first marker. Around this point you will want to change back to using the circular needle by knitting off of the double pointed needles onto the circular needle. Knit one round without decreasing (or two rounds, if you like a slower rate of decrease for a higher instep), and repeat the decrease round. Repeat decrease and plain knit rounds until 64 (72) sts remain on the needle. Knit plain until the foot is about 7.25" (8") long (2 to 2 1/2 inches less than desired length).

Wedge toe: Change to double pointed needles.
Round 1: Knit to last 3 sts before first marker, k2 tog, k1, slip marker, K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts before second marker, K2 TOG, K1, slip marker, K1, SSK.
Round 2: Knit around in stockinette stitch. Repeat these two rounds until 16 (18) sts rem. Divide the 16 (18) sts between 2 needles at markers and Kitchener stitch (graft) them together or do a 3-needle bind off.

Now knit the second sock!

copyright 2002 Margie D
All rights reserved
You may print and make copies of this pattern to share as long as the entire copyright notice remains intact. Please don’t post it to any website or email list without my permission.

Basic Sock Pattern on 12" Circular Needle

Sized to fit Women's Medium (size 8 feet) Men's Medium or Women's Large in ( )

Gauge: 8.5 sts and 9 rows to the inch in stockinette.

SUPPLIES NEEDED:

Size 2.5 MM Addi Turbo(r) Circular needle (U.S. size 1.5)

Size 2.5 mm or 2.25 mm (1 U.S.) double point needles, which you will need for the heel and the toes, set of 5.

I prefer using a 12" ADDI turbo circular to knit my sock, so that's how this pattern is written. It can certainly be knit using any method you prefer. See my post about using markers instead of needles to avoid ladders and convert any pattern to your preferred method of knitting.

100 grams of Regia Ringel or Mini Ringel or other fingering weight (sock) yarn such as Opal, Meilenweit, Lang Jawoll or Austermann Step.

Add one 50 gram skein for larger size or a longer length. This can be a contrast solid color, used for heels and toes. The stripe pattern will get wider on the heel and some people prefer the solid color heel and toe for this reason.

NOTE: I've recently rediscovered a great band heel which eliminates the long stripes at this great site. I knit my last two pair using this heel and it is very nice. I still use the EOP slip stitch, which means I have to add a few rows to the heel flap before decreasing. Then I have a few decrease rounds after picking up the gusset stitches. Thanks to Nan for this great pattern and tutorial, and to Nancy Bush for the band heel.

2 small circular markers, in different colors. I like red and green: red for stop decreasing; green for start decreasing.

CO 64 (72) sts. Join, being careful not to twist, and K2, P2 for 2"

Place a marker at join. The striping pattern of the yarn should look nice for both sizes at this gauge. Knit around until sock tube measures 7 (8) inches long.

Remove marker until heel is finished. Change to double pointed needles, keeping the instep stitches on the circular needle. Change to solid color yarn if you are using it. Knit the heel on double points over the first 32 (36) sts.

Heel: Eye of Partridge with slipped st edge

Row 1: *slip 1 KW*, k1,* repeat between *'s to end

Row 2: slip 1, p to end

Row 3: slip 1 KW, *k2, slip 1,* repeat between *'s to last 2 sts, end k2 (Don’t end with a slipped stitch.)

Row 4: repeat Row 2.

Knit this pattern until heel flap is 2 1/4 - 2 1/2 (2 3/4 - 3) inches long. This is a matter of personal preference. Measure the bare foot of the intended recipient from floor to top of ankle bone to determine the correct measurement.

Heel turn: (round heel) Thanks to David Mackay's "heels by number" which was the inspiration for these.

(Note: SSK = slip a st PW* to right needle, slip a second st KW to right needle, then knit those two together)

Row 1: slip 1, knit 16 (18), ssk, k 1, turn

Row 2: slip 1, purl 5, p2tog, p1, turn

Row 3: slip 1, knit 6, ssk, k1, turn

Row 4: slip 1, purl 7, p2tog, p 1, turn.

Continue on, adding one st knitted or purled at the center of the row until all sts have been worked. You should be ending with a knit row. If not, knit across the heel in Eye of Partridge pattern until you reach the pick up edge.

Change back to variegated yarn at this point, if you are using it. Using a new double point needle, pick up & knit one st from each slipped st along the edge of the heel flap (about 20). Place first marker here. Knit across the instep stitches which were not part of the heel, place second marker. Pick up & knit stitches on opposite side of heel flap, knit across heel flap to three stitches from first marker. You should have about 96-104 stitches on the needle at this point.

Decrease Round:

Three stitches from first marker, k 2 tog, k 1. Knit across instep to second marker, slip it, k 1, SSK, knit around to the first marker. Around this point you will want to change back to using the circular needle. Knit one round without decreasing (or two, if you like a slower rate of decrease for a higher instep), and repeat decrease round. Repeat decrease and plain knit rounds until 64 (72) sts remain on the needle. Knit plain until the foot is about 7.25" (8") long (2 to 2 1/2 inches less than desired length). Change to double pointed needles again, and solid color yarn if you are using it.

Wedge toe:

Round 1: Knit to last 3 sts before first marker, k2 tog, k1, slip marker, K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts before second marker, K2 TOG, K1, slip marker, K1, SSK.

Round 2: Knit around in stockinette stitch.

Repeat these two rounds until 16 (18) sts rem. Divide the 16 (18) sts between 2 needles at markers and Kitchener stitch (graft) them tog or do a 3-needle bind off.

Now knit the second sock!

*KW=knit wise

Copyright 2001 Margie D

All rights reserved.

Knit from Your Stash 2007

I heard about this Knit from your Stash plan in late December and have been trying to follow it, with one change. I made an inventory of my sock yarn a few weeks ago and determined that, at the rate I have been knitting socks, averaging 9 pairs a year since 2000, I have 20 years worth of sock yarn to knit with. That's at least 270 skeins of sock yarn! (Some are 50 gram and some are 100 gram skeins.) So, no sock yarn purchases either. Sock books, yes. I have my eye on two new books, Sensational Knitted Socks Two and the new Interweave Sock book.

Last year I made a concerted effort to finish all of my second socks and pretty much succeeded. I only have two single socks that I am not actively knitting on sock #2, down from a high of nine. I'm bored with all of the socks I am currently knitting, though (six different pairs, all started last year). I was gifted with a brand new set of vintage Boye Balene prototype DPN's, so I started a new sock over the weekend using stash yarn. It's a combination of this Dutch pattern and Ginger Luter's Swatch Your Step pattern from her wonderful book, Module Magic. I am using Lorna's Laces yarn in the green, teal and purple Lakeview colorway and a solid color medium aqua blue Special Blauband. I'll post pictures soon.

I love using slip stitch patterns. They also work well in socks, for uniting leftover balls of yarn using a 50 gram ball of a solid color as the contrast. and using the leftovers as your contrast color. This makes a striking sock, but there are lots more ends to weave in. I've found they are actually less stretchy and I need to use more stitches. YMMV, and the slip stitch pattern you use also has a lot to do with it.